What is the meaning of life? For me, the answer is simple: to seek happiness.
Two things bring me joy—eating and playing. Once I hit my 50s, with a bit of life experience under my belt, I finally discovered the perfect way to combine both: travel.
By the time you reach 50, you realize that those so-called responsibilities that once weighed you down don’t need to dictate your life anymore. I’m no chosen one, so why should I carry the burdens that have made me miserable for so long?
My travel style is modest, yet a bit unique. I don’t visit the famous tourist spots that flood social media. Instead, I love seeking out the places, people, and stories that have left a mark in history. Datong made its way onto my itinerary for this very reason. The city, once known as Pingcheng, was the capital of the Northern Wei dynasty after the Xianbei people established their rule in 386 AD.
What fascinated me most was the history I read about in a book: During the reign of Emperor Taiwu, Buddhist monasteries were purged, and their monks forced to return to secular life. However, after Emperor Taiwu’s death, his grandson Emperor Wencheng started restoring those monasteries and ordered the construction of the Yungang Grottoes.
As a lifelong dream, I had always wanted to visit the four major Buddhist cave sites, and Yungang was one of them.
The history of these caves, known as the “Tanyao Caves,” intrigued me. Named after the monk Tan Yao, these caves were carved into the cliffs near the capital. They contain statues carved to resemble the faces of Emperor Taiwu’s family members—an unusual choice for Buddha statues. Why were the faces of the royal family carved instead of traditional depictions of Buddha? It’s a question I pondered as I made my way to the site.
Upon deciding to visit Datong, I began preparing for my journey. As a budget traveler, accommodation was a big part of my expenses. Fortunately, thanks to the wonders of smartphones, I booked a room through a live-streaming session with a beautiful host, hoping her good grace would ensure a warm welcome. However, I ended up in a room so small that I regretted my decision the moment I stepped inside. But no matter, my curiosity about the city and its ancient history would not be dampened.
The weather in Datong was chilly in March, which the host had kindly warned me about. After settling into my tiny room, I ventured out to explore the city. I was determined to make the most of my time in this historic town.
The first thing I did after checking in was head straight to the famous Yungang Grottoes. Datong is not yet in peak tourist season, so I had the place mostly to myself. The statues, ancient carvings, and relics filled me with awe, and I marveled at the intricacy of the stonework.
After visiting the caves, I decided to wander through some other significant sites, including Huayan Temple, which has a fascinating history. Unlike many temples I had visited, this one faced east, in alignment with the Khitan people’s worship of the sun. The vibrant murals and golden statues filled the temple’s halls with life. But it was the temple’s underground hall, or the “Dizang Hall,” that piqued my interest the most.
I climbed down to the underground chamber, where I found golden statues and intricately designed relics, including a “reliquary” that was said to contain the remains of a saint. Though I couldn’t see it clearly, I stood there contemplating the spiritual significance of the relics. After some time, I slowly made my way back upstairs, my legs trembling from the steep stairs.
Leaving the temple behind, I wandered to the nearby Pure Yang Palace, dedicated to Lü Dongbin, a Taoist immortal. I’ve always had a deep appreciation for Taoism, more so than Buddhism. Taoism feels grounded in the world, with its ideals rooted in daily life.
After my visit to Pure Yang Palace, I strolled to the famous Bell Tower and Drum Tower, reflecting on the blend of history and life that fills Datong’s streets. I also visited the famous Jiulongbi (Nine-Dragon Wall), which was built by Zhu Gui, the 13th son of Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang of the Ming dynasty. I found it fascinating how Zhu Gui, stationed in Datong as a frontier guardian, built this wall as a display of power. The symbolism of the nine dragons—representing supreme force—was unmistakable.
By now, I had walked a great deal and was feeling hungry. I needed to eat something quintessentially Datong. So, I made my way to a local eatery for a steaming bowl of knife-cut noodles (刀削面). In Datong, no visit is complete without trying their famous noodles, so I devoured not one but 10 bowls over my three-day stay.
Datong, with its rich history and delicious food, had given me more than I could have expected. The combination of ancient temples, cultural landmarks, and tasty local dishes made this trip unforgettable. If you’re ever in China, don’t miss out on this hidden gem. It’s a city where the past and present meet, and where every bite tells a story.
References:
- “The History of the Yungang Grottoes,” Chinese Cultural Heritage Review, 2024.
- “Datong: From Ancient Capital to Modern City,” Heritage and Tourism Journal, 2025.
